Helichrysum, also known as immortelle, is a genus of plants with yellow flowers that do not wilt once dried, which is why it is called the everlasting flower. In cosmetics you will most often come across Italian immortelle, from which our organic Italian immortelle floral water from the floral waters category is also made. Come and see how many species of helichrysum we actually know and how they differ.
What helichrysum is and why it is called the everlasting flower
Immortelle belongs to the genus Helichrysum, which includes more than 600 species of plants from the aster family. The name of the genus comes from the Greek words helios, meaning sun, and chrysos, meaning gold, exactly matching the colour of its tiny flowers. The petals are thin and dry to the touch even on the living plant, so once cut they neither wilt nor shrivel and keep their colour for months. This makes helichrysum popular in dried bouquets and wreaths, but by no means every species is suitable for cosmetics. It grows in sunny, dry places, on slopes, meadows and sandy soils, where even the strong midday sun does not bother it. Its leaves are narrow, silvery grey-green and slightly felty, which helps the plant retain moisture in a dry environment. It flowers from early summer; the tiny blossoms are gathered in round clusters at the tops of the stems, and these are what is most often harvested for drying or distillation.
How many species of helichrysum do we actually know
Several plants hide under one name. Cosmetics work mainly with Italian immortelle, the ornamental strawflower belongs in dried bouquets, and in the Slovak countryside there also grows a wild relative with a completely different name and a completely different fate.
Italian immortelle (Helichrysum italicum)
Italian immortelle grows on the sunny slopes of the Mediterranean, among other fragrant herbs, and has an unmistakable, gently spicy scent. Steam distillation of its tiny yellow flowers yields both an essential oil and a floral water, which are used in natural cosmetics as a toner or as part of a facial ritual. This is what our Organic Italian immortelle floral water is made from, a 100% floral distillate with no added water, certified to the Ecocert standard. A small amount of oil requires a large quantity of fresh flowers, which is why it is among the more expensive raw materials in natural cosmetics. It is also grown commercially, mainly in Croatia, Italy and France, where it thrives in the warm Mediterranean climate and stony, well-drained soil. It is harvested by hand at full bloom, usually in summer, when the concentration of aromatic substances in the flowers is at its highest and the plant is at its most fragrant.
Dwarf everlast, the wild relative of immortelle (Helichrysum arenarium)
The wild dwarf everlast also belongs to the same genus Helichrysum, and in Slovakia you will find it on dry sandy areas and sunny hillsides. According to available studies and descriptions of dwarf everlast, it is a highly endangered species listed in the Red List of vascular plants of Slovakia. So never pick or pull it up in the wild, but feel free to take a photo of its golden-yellow flowers. Dwarf everlast also had its place in folk herbalism, but today it is an endangered plant, and for any health concerns always talk to a doctor. It is harmed most by the loss of its natural habitat, meaning sand extraction, the afforestation of sand dunes and the building over of dry meadows, to which flower picking by passers-by and gardeners is added. Unlike Italian immortelle, it must therefore never become part of any cosmetic or herbal product.
Ornamental strawflower, the one from a dried bouquet (Xerochrysum bracteatum)
When you picture an everlasting flower from a dried bouquet at grandma's cottage, you are most likely thinking of the ornamental strawflower. It grows as an annual garden plant, flowers in shades of yellow, orange, pink and white, and is easy to make into arrangements. Unlike Italian immortelle, it is not used in cosmetics; it is purely a decorative garden plant.
| Species | Common name | Where it grows | Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Helichrysum italicum | Italian immortelle | Mediterranean, also cultivated | Essential oil, floral water, cosmetics |
| Helichrysum arenarium | Dwarf everlast | Wild in Slovakia, endangered species | Not picked, only admired |
| Xerochrysum bracteatum | Ornamental strawflower | Gardens, annual | Dried bouquets and wreaths |
How immortelle smells and how it is processed
The scent of Italian immortelle is warm, honeyed and slightly spicy; to lovers of natural cosmetics it brings to mind a sunny day by the sea. Steam distillation of the flowers yields an essential oil and also a by-product of distillation, the floral water, which you can apply directly to your face with a soft pad or mist over your skin to refresh it during the day. Our floral water contains only the distillate from the flowers with no added water; it is used as a toner after cleansing and helps bring a feeling of freshness and calm to more mature skin. In the ingredients of several of our products you will also find Helichrysum Italicum Flower Oil, the oil of Italian immortelle, which complements its action in the richer texture of creams and balms. The floral water and the oil are produced in a single distillation step: the floral water is the lighter watery part, and the oil separates as a more concentrated layer on the surface. As a result, both forms have a similar scent, but they differ in concentration and in how they are further processed in cosmetics.
Natural cosmetics with immortelle
You will find immortelle in several Panakeia products, from a light toner to rich balms and serums. Each of them has Helichrysum Italicum Flower Oil or the floral water itself confirmed in its ingredients; we checked this directly on the labels.
- Organic Italian immortelle floral water, a 100% floral distillate used as a toner after cleansing.
- Multifunctional cleansing balm with immortelle, gentle make-up removal and cleansing in one step.
- Facial serum with immortelle and bakuchiol from the facial serums category.
- Two-phase make-up remover with immortelle and coenzyme Q10, for thorough removal of make-up from the face and eyes.
Who immortelle suits
The floral water and products with immortelle are especially suited to more mature and tired skin that longs for a feeling of freshness and calm after a demanding day. Thanks to the gentle composition of the floral water, you can also use it on skin prone to redness, where it works as a refreshing toner. If your skin is prone to imperfections, reach instead for lighter products with bakuchiol, which complement immortelle with a gentler texture. Before using any new product for the first time, we recommend doing a sensitivity test on a small area of skin, and if problems persist, talk to a dermatologist. You can add the floral water to both your morning and evening routine straight after cleansing, before serum and cream, or carry it with you as a refreshing mist on hot summer days. Balms and serums with immortelle, on the other hand, suit an evening ritual better, when the skin has time to absorb a richer texture.
Did you know…
Did you know that the name of the genus Helichrysum comes from the Greek words helios, meaning sun, and chrysos, meaning gold?