PDRN, short for polydeoxyribonucleotide, is a DNA-derived ingredient that has moved from aesthetic clinics into cosmetics for use at home. At Panakeia you will find it in the PDRN edition, where we combined plant-based and animal-derived forms of this ingredient with exosomes in serums and creams for tired and dehydrated skin. Let us look at what this ingredient really is and how it differs from the injectable version at the clinic.
What PDRN is and where the abbreviation comes from
Polydeoxyribonucleotide is the technical name for short fragments of DNA with a low molecular weight. In medicine this molecule has been studied for decades in connection with supporting tissue renewal, and it was most often obtained from salmon DNA. Gradually it also reached aesthetic medicine, where doctors apply it by injection into the skin, and from there its name spread among ordinary customers too. That is why you can now find this ingredient in shops in serums and creams as well, although it is a completely different form of the same family of substances. The abbreviation PDRN can therefore refer to two different things, an injection at the doctor or a cosmetic product on your bathroom shelf, and it is good to be able to tell them apart. International studies on polydeoxyribonucleotide have so far focused mainly on injectable use in medicine, not on cosmetic serums for home use.
PDRN in aesthetic medicine versus PDRN in cosmetics
Injectable PDRN, also known under the trade name Rejuran, is an aesthetic medicine procedure. It is applied exclusively by a doctor with a fine needle directly into the skin; it is a medical procedure with its own regulation, not a cosmetic product that you would buy in an online shop. A cosmetic serum or cream with this ingredient, by contrast, you apply yourself to the surface of the skin, just like any other facial product. These are two different worlds with different regulation and a different way of use, and so no cosmetic product can replace a procedure at the doctor or guarantee the same result. Scientific knowledge about how deep a larger DNA molecule from a cream gets through the surface of the skin is so far limited, and that is why at Panakeia we talk about the cosmetic version as an interesting ingredient for the feel of the skin, not as a replacement for a clinical procedure.
| Feature | Injectable PDRN (clinic) | PDRN in cosmetics (at home) |
|---|---|---|
| Who applies it | a doctor, with a fine needle | you, on the surface of the skin |
| Form | a medical procedure | serum, toner, cream |
| Regulation | aesthetic medicine | a cosmetic product |
| What you can expect | decided individually by the doctor | a feeling of hydration and suppler-looking skin |
What the INCI name of PDRN is in cosmetic ingredients
When you look for PDRN in a product's ingredients, you will not find it on the packaging under this abbreviation. In the INCI list, that is, the international list of cosmetic ingredients, this molecule most often appears under the name Hydrolyzed DNA or Sodium DNA. That is exactly how it is written on the label of our 30 ml Phyto exosome hydrating serum, where we checked the ingredients directly. So if you were ever unsure what this abbreviation in cosmetic ingredients actually means, now you know which two words to look for on the packaging.
- Hydrolyzed DNA, the most common INCI name for this ingredient in toners and serums.
- Sodium DNA, an alternative name that appears mainly in more intensive formulas.
- Hydrolyzed Sponge, the source of so-called spicules, microscopic structures from a sponge, which are combined in cosmetics with hydrolysed DNA.
Plant and animal sources of PDRN
This ingredient occurs in cosmetics in two basic versions, animal-derived and plant-based. Animal-derived PDRN is obtained from the DNA of salmonid fish and appears in the ingredients of products as Sodium DNA, exactly as stated on the label of our Exosome Spicule serum, where it is combined with hydrolysed sponge. The plant alternative, so-called Phyto PDRN, works with extracts of plants that naturally have a high content of nucleic acids, for example Chinese wolfberry, also known as goji. In our products you will find an extract from a callus culture of Chinese wolfberry, that is, from its plant cells grown in a laboratory, which is a common way of obtaining plant active ingredients in natural cosmetics without having to harvest a large quantity of fruit.
What exosomes are and why they are mentioned together with PDRN
Exosomes are microscopic vesicles that cells naturally use to exchange information with one another. In cosmetics they are talked about as a possible way of bringing active ingredients closer to the skin, but research and regulation in this area are still taking shape. European legislation has strict rules for ingredients of human or high-risk animal origin, so in cosmetics commonly sold in shops you meet mainly plant exosomes. Here too, then, the same principle applies at Panakeia as with the previous ingredient: it is an interesting but still relatively new ingredient, which we talk about with moderation and without big promises. Review studies on exosomes in cosmetics confirm that this is an area that is still taking shape in regulation and in research.
Who products with PDRN suit
Serums and creams with this ingredient and exosomes are intended mainly for more mature skin that needs more intensive hydration and a feeling of firmness, as well as for tired and dehydrated skin after a demanding period, illness or lack of sleep. Thanks to their gentle texture and the combination with hyaluronic acid, they also suit the routine of more sensitive skin that asks for a mild composition without unnecessary irritating substances. If you have skin prone to imperfections, you can reach for the plant version with goji extract, which feels gentler than a more intensive serum with spicules. If you have any doubts, especially if you have very sensitive or problem skin, always talk to a dermatologist first, or write to our Advisor.
How to use a PDRN serum and cream
Products from the PDRN edition are used as an ordinary part of the daily and evening routine, and you will always find the exact amount and order of steps on the label of the particular product. In general a simple procedure applies, which you can try with the toner, serum and cream from the Phyto exosome set.
- First gently cleanse the skin and pat it dry with a towel.
- Apply the toner with your palms or a cotton pad to prepare the skin for the next steps.
- Spread the serum with your fingertips by gently patting until it is fully absorbed.
- Apply the cream as the last layer and leave it to work according to the instructions on the packaging.
Did you know…
Did you know that you will not find the abbreviation PDRN on cosmetics packaging? In the INCI list this ingredient hides under the name Hydrolyzed DNA or Sodium DNA.