Salicylic acid: how and when to use it on your skin

What is salicylic acid?

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) obtained from willow bark, used in cosmetics to gently dissolve sebum and dead skin cells in the pores. Unlike AHA acids, which work on the surface of the skin, this ingredient is oil-soluble and can penetrate deeper into the pores. That is why it appears in toners, serums and shampoos for skin prone to oiliness and imperfections.

This beta hydroxy acid is among the most thoroughly researched ingredients in the care of skin prone to oiliness, blocked pores and uneven texture. Thanks to its oil solubility it penetrates deeper than most other exfoliants, so it can work right inside the pore, not just on the surface of the skin. Cosmetics with BHA are therefore often recommended as an addition to an ordinary routine for those who deal with shine, blackheads or a rougher skin surface. It is not a medicine or a miracle solution, but a carefully dosed active ingredient that, with regular use, helps skin look cleaner and more even. That is exactly why this ingredient appears in such a wide range of products, from toners through serums to shampoos.

Salicylic acid: how does it work?

This versatile acid works by dissolving excess sebum and clearing the pores. BHA also has soothing properties, which help ease irritated skin and reduce the visibility of redness. By gently exfoliating and supporting cell turnover, it contributes over time to a brighter and more radiant look of the skin. Because it is oil-soluble, it can penetrate deeper into the layers of the skin, where it targets impurities right at the source. Its keratolytic properties also help loosen the bonds between dead skin cells, which prevents them from building up on the surface. This makes it a suitable choice for skin prone to imperfections and blackheads.

Benefits of salicylic acid in cosmetics

Helps skin prone to imperfections

One of the most common uses of salicylic acid in Panakeia natural cosmetics is the care of skin prone to imperfections. Its ability to penetrate deep into the pores helps remove oiliness and impurities, which supports a cleaner look of the skin and helps prevent new imperfections. Regular use can visibly reduce breakouts, blackheads and whiteheads. Unlike harsher alternatives, which often dry out the skin, this acid works more gently, and is therefore suitable for long-term use as part of a daily routine. Many women with skin prone to oiliness include it as a staple they can rely on, even in periods when their skin behaves unpredictably.

A peel for smoother skin

Salicylic acid acts as a gentle chemical exfoliant, dissolving dead skin cells and helping to prevent dullness and a rough skin texture. Unlike physical scrubs, which can cause micro-tears, BHA helps exfoliate without irritation, and is therefore also suitable for more sensitive skin types. By supporting a faster turnover of skin cells, it helps the skin keep a fresh and youthful look. Regular exfoliation can also help gently even out skin tone and reduce the visibility of darker marks left by imperfections.

Salicylic acid reduces pores

If your skin gets oily, this acid will help you balance sebum production. By keeping pores cleaner and sebum levels under control, it minimises the visibility of enlarged pores and supports a more even skin tone. Many people with oilier skin have noticed that regular use helps reduce shine and maintain a more matte look without a feeling of dryness. BHA works with the skin's natural balance and leaves it the hydration it needs where it should be.

Soothing sensitive skin

Thanks to its soothing properties, this acid can help ease redness and irritation, which makes it pleasant even for skin prone to sensitivity. Its ability to act on small imperfections makes it a handy helper for spot treatment. As already mentioned, it brings relief without causing excessive dryness. Because it works at the cellular level in exfoliating and cleansing, it helps skin calm down sooner, and so it also suits a more sensitive skin type.

How to use salicylic acid

Salicylic acid is available in many formulations: in cleansers, facial toners, facial serums, shampoos and spot treatments. If you want to add it to your skincare routine, start with a lower concentration and increase it gradually only once your skin has got used to BHA. It is best applied in the evening, followed by a moisturising cream to prevent possible dryness. When you combine this acid with other active ingredients, such as retinol or stronger AHAs, take care to avoid over-exfoliation and irritation. That is why it is worth reaching for good-quality, proven cosmetic products with a balanced composition, where the concentration of the active ingredient is thought through and tested.

Facial toner with salicylic acid

ŠTRAMANDA facial toner with BHA is designed for all skin types and is especially pleasant for those whose skin gets very oily, has blocked pores or is prone to imperfections. Thanks to salicylic acid, it is an excellent choice for softening the look of whiteheads and blackheads and for a more even skin tone overall. The toner will also be loved by those whose skin reacts to hormonal changes, for example in adolescence, menopause or stressful periods. Apply it with a cotton pad after cleansing, before you use a serum or cream, as the light texture absorbs pleasantly and leaves no sticky feeling. Try adding it first in the evening and, depending on how your skin reacts, gradually add morning use too.

Anti-dandruff shampoo with salicylic acid

We also recommend the anti-dandruff shampoo, enriched with natural salicylic acid obtained from willow extract (BHA), which gently exfoliates a scalp prone to flaking. The formula is further enhanced with a complex of seaweed and zinc, which supports a pleasant feeling on the scalp. Tea tree oil and rosemary essential oil give the shampoo a naturally cleansing and refreshing character, while aloe vera, plant keratin and honey conditioner nourish and hydrate the hair and make sure it stays soft and free from irritation. The shampoo suits ordinary care, including when you simply want to give your scalp gentle regular exfoliation without changing the rest of your routine.

Salicylic ointment or cosmetics with salicylic acid? What is the difference

You will often come across the search term "salicylic ointment", so the difference is worth explaining. Salicylic ointment with a higher concentration (commonly sold as 10% or 30%) is a registered medicine used for keratolysis, that is, for removing thick, hardened skin, for example in the case of warts or corns. It is a medicinal preparation with precisely set dosing, which belongs in a pharmacy, not in a cosmetic routine. Cosmetics with salicylic acid work in a completely different way. They contain a much lower concentration, intended for the care of skin and hair: it dissolves sebum, gently exfoliates and helps keep pores clean. In the European Union, this concentration and the way it is used are restricted by Regulation 1223/2009, specifically Annex III, which distinguishes between leave-on, rinse-off and hair products and does not allow salicylic acid in products for children under 3 years, except for shampoos. The exact percentage differs according to the type of product, but they have one thing in common: they are well below the limit of a medicinal preparation. So when you are looking for an "ointment" for minor skin imperfections, this is exactly the answer: cosmetics with BHA, not a medicine.

Interesting facts about salicylic acid

• Ancient origin: Salicylic acid was first used by the ancient Egyptians and Greeks, who extracted it from willow bark to ease pain and inflammation.
• Aspirin: The famous painkiller aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) was developed as a synthetic derivative of natural salicylic acid.
• Found naturally in fruit and vegetables: Salicylic acid is naturally present in foods such as strawberries, blueberries, tomatoes and cucumbers.
• Also used on the scalp: Salicylic acid is not only for facial care. It is also a key ingredient in anti-dandruff shampoos thanks to its ability to exfoliate the scalp.
• Oil-soluble power: Unlike AHAs, which are water-soluble, salicylic acid (BHA) is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deep into blocked pores to remove excess sebum.
• A long cosmetic history: For more than 100 years salicylic acid has been one of the basic ingredients in the care of skin prone to imperfections, which shows its long-standing effectiveness in cosmetic products.

Sources

• Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products, Annex III: EUR-Lex, CELEX 32009R1223. The source of the rules for the use of salicylic acid in cosmetic products.
• European Commission: cosmetic ingredient database CosIng. A source for verifying the INCI name and classification of salicylic acid.

Author: Erika Bundalová, head of production and development at Panakeia SK. She prepared the text based on current cosmetics legislation and INCI databases.